Introduction -- Street photography of Harlem, early 1970s -- Since 1977, exploring Harlem through time-lapse photography -- The urban fabric -- Many Harlems, one cultural capital of black America -- Lost Harlem -- Globalization takes over: from sugar club to global church -- Ruins and semi-ruins -- Landmark Harlem and Harlem landmarks -- Memorialization -- "Simply magnificent": the new apartment buildings of Harlem -- The projects: unlikely bastions preserving traditions -- The subway -- Defenses -- Culture -- Harlem walls: graffiti, memorials, murals, and advertisements -- Religion -- Parades, celebrations, and commemorations -- "We put our own spin on style": Harlem fashions -- The African presence in Harlem -- Tourists in search of Harlem's heyday -- A defiant attitude -- Lexington Avenue at East 125th street: a happening intersection -- Free food -- What mean these stones? -- Afterword -- In Harlem wandering from street to street.